It’s been a few months since I posted much of anything to the board, but the wife and I ended up at Beavers last night. At this point it’s not news to anyone here that fantastic food is being served up at the converted icehouse on Sawyer, but I’m gonna go ahead and say it again: Mr Jones knows what the hell he is doing, folks.
I remember at PBTD I overheard JJ vigorously (the vigor may or may not have been inspired by a few Southern Star Bombshell Blonde Ales 🙂 discussing his understanding and vision for ‘Texas Coastal Cuisine’, and how there were some that thought this just meant fancy BBQ. His perspective was that classic techniques and focus were long overdue to be applied to the foods of the western gulf coast – and not just the french techniques from New Orleans – but to all of the homestyle cooking that has gotten so mashed up in east and southeast Texas. I may have some of the details wrong (I was eavesdropping after all), but I remember being reenergized to go and try his cooking again based on his excitement and passion.
I’ve been a few times since that day, but it was topped off with last night. The specials were generally stupendous. First was a softshell crab sandwich. The crab was dredged in cornmeal and some spice, fried to perfection and served open faced on brioche with veg and shaved pineapple. It was awesome.
Next was a dozen San Leon oysters with a lemony foam and bacon. IMO, Gulf oysters this time of year are not at their best, and so the lemon and bacon were a nice counter on top of the shellfish. Our table was mixed on these – they were OK, but I really felt it was a nice way to work with an ingredient as it was. It would have been quite easy to just serve the oysters on the halfshell and work with the excuse that October has an ‘R’ in it, so it was OK.
The topper was a cowpea (crowders I think?) salad with a spicy marinade/vinaigrette, red onion and tempura battered and fried okra. The spice, vinegar bite and cold cooked peas were seriously great. A really nice and well executed play on cowboy caviar.
Interestingly we ran into a bunch of HouCHies and ended up dining with them, and later I found out that there was another table of HouCHies in there at the same time – so obviously I’m preaching to the choir here :-).
However, it was simply that good of a meal and I wanted to share it.